Travel to Sydney

Sydney buzzes with the vibrancy of a true city of the world. It has the largess of New York's skyscrapers, the warmth of the cafes and bistros of Paris, the sparkling skyline of Tokyo. Uniquely, all its own, it touts one of the most beautiful natural harbor's of the world, fixed by the stunning architectural feat of the Sydney Opera House, it's white roof rising like the sails of the foreign ships that grace the bay. There is no debating it; it's quite stunning.

As I write this, I am sitting at the Icebergs Restaurant over-looking the panoramic vista of Bondi Beach. It's a "crowded" day, but everything's relative. Crowded on Jones Beach in New York, means you can't find a place to spread your towel. Crowded here, means you can hear your neighbor's conversation from a few meters away. There are, apparently, nets that are supposed to keep the sharks out, but every once in a while, I'm told, you'll hear them sound the shark alarm, signaling that a wayward, headstrong one has made its way through the barrier. I think that's just to spice up the excitement on the beach, but I'm not eager to test the truth, so I'm watching the action from above.

Below me is the Icebergs Club and Pool, which is a salt water pool that literally gets its salt water from a pump nestled in the rocks from the adjacent ocean and from the waves that from time to time cascade over the side of the pool. It's just exquisite, and apart from the black lines that mark the swimmers' lanes, with the sound of the waves crashing against the rocks and the side of the pool, you feel almost as if you're in the ocean, minus the threat of sharks (all but the very, very ambitious once, at least).

As a home base, I chose the Blue Sydney, primarily since it just celebrated its one year anniversary, having recently changing hands from the "W," a Starwood Group, to Taj, under the genteel auspices of General Manager Kottarapurath Mohanchandran ("Mohan" for short), whose last posting was Udaipur, where he served as GM for the Taj Lake Palace.

For those of you who have not seen the property, it is a brave and ambitious choice for Taj Structurally, it is quite different from any Taj I know, having been converted from a warehouse that once processed and stored wool. As it is a Heritage Landmark, the base structure remains unaltered, a modern hotel, reflecting its historic wharf roots.

The first thing that strikes the visitor is, "What is this?" By that, I mean that despite the 11 meter ceiling, exposed corrugated iron and timber from the original frame of the building, and defunct conveyor belts, there is a rather funky, chic bar in a vast space that is the very first hint that the purpose of the structure includes recreation and imbibing. It does not, however, appear to be a hotel, as the reception area is out of sight to the right as one enters and up a flight of stairs. Not exactly the curb appeal that screams, "hotel," and perhaps that is part of its mystique and appeal, but for the traditional among you, be advised.

The hotel sits on Finger Wharf in Woolloomooloo (no, I did not make a mistake, it really has eight "o"s, and is thus on the outskirts of the Commercial Business District or "CBD" as it is known. The wharf was constructed in 1910 during a period of expanding wool, wheat and import trading which lasted from late last century until the 1930s depression. Changes in the nature of international shipping after WWII rendered this once modern facility increasingly redundant for cargo handling.

In 1956, Shed NO. 7 was modified to handle the growing passenger trade, however this too diminished with the completion of the Circular Quay Passenger Terminal. With the exception of minor modifications, the wharf structure remains in its original condition. In the 1990s, perceived as redundant as a passenger terminal, the wharf was redeveloped as a luxury marina, entertainment and apartment complex (now hosting the likes of Russell Crowe, John Laws, and Lang Walker).

In 2000 the warehouse was converted by "W" into a luxury hotel, and the surrounding space into boutique restaurants that line the marina, offering indoor and outdoor dining with a lovely view.

Parking continues to be a challenge for the property, as is the unique challenges of maintaining a property that sits on piles drilled into the harbor bed, but those aren't challenges the guest needs to confront. Not much has changed since the hand-over to Taj, although the hotel may close for a short time to give the place a Taj lift, adding hanging silk draperies in the massive cafes area to soften it and add a touch of decor from the Indian Ocean, if only in the nature of the fabric chosen. They'll also expand the bar menu, which is fairly limited at the moment, although the cocktails offered are quite unique and inspiring, even before your opinion has been influenced by the generous alcohol pour.

They also intend to move the lobby from its out of the way location, to front and center, which I believe will be a logical and welcomed change. If there are additional changes in mind, Mohan is not saying, and we'll just have to wait for the unveiling.

The Blue has 100 deluxe guest rooms, including 36 loft rooms with city and harbor views. Be careful to request the marina side of the hotel, as it is clearly more picturesque, facing the lovely yachts, park, and city. The rooms on the other side of the hotel, while technically facing a harbor, are relatively unexciting views, except when the occasional naval vessel is docked.

The rooms are a modern, sophisticated design, with muted beiges and white, accented with blue chairs and couches, brown linen, and the occasional red pillow. There is an oversized work desk in most of the rooms, wireless high-speed access, cordless phone, 27" T.V. (soon to be converted to Plasma), Bose CD Player, VCR, king-size beds with pillow-top mattresses, 250 thread count sheets, goose-down comforters and pillows. There are even some pocket-sized office supplies in the work area: a tiny stapler, scotch tape and highlight pen in a sleek brown leather box came in very handy as I wrote my article and organized my materials.

There are seven different room categories: The Wharf Room (575 AUD), the Woolloomooloo Room (675 AUD), the Pier Rooms (775 AUD), the Marina Rooms (875 AUD), the Pier Lofts (775 AUD), the Marina Lofts (875 AUD), and the Ultra Loft (2000 AUD). I stayed in the Ultra Loft, a huge duplex with skylights and windows running the entire length of the room and overlooking the yachts below and a bedroom above with a small bathroom (Aveda travel-sized products), but managing a bath and separate shower and a small closet, the latter being inadequate in relation to the largess of the room. I personally didn't care for the separate space, going up and down the stairs rather continuously for something or other I forgot to bring up or down the stairs, or trying to turn off 12 lights without a master switch.

I preferred instead, the Marina Room, with equally panoramic views (marina side) and much larger bathrooms, despite the fact that there is no separate living space and the overall space is considerably smaller. Without doubt, it is the best value room, with identical amenities to its big brother counterpart. Rates may vary during high season. Guests I met were charming, and demographics are approximately, 50% Australian, followed by the United States, New Zealand, India, and Asia, in varying percents and in descending order.

In short, staff is friendly and efficient, housekeeping, including turn-down service, quite sufficient, Mohan is a soft-spoken, sophisticated treasure, and the anticipated changes in softening the ambience will be anticipated. Guests may be put off only by small bathrooms and closets in huge suites, the ultra-modern and somewhat disorienting entry, and the lack of an on-site restaurant, but there are plenty of lovely restaurants just outside the front door, lining the marina, a reasonable room alternative for guests in which a large ensuite is desirable, and as for the historic roots as a warehouse for wool, one can either reject it as an architectural concept, or revel in man's capacity to adapt structures for alternative use, when the initial function no longer suits.

Pleasing alternatives are the Park Hyatt Sydney, a location over-looking the Opera House, with views of it from most rooms, and adjacent to the Rocks market, cannot be exceeded anywhere in Sydney. The InterContinental Sydney, despite its lesser location has spectacular views from the 31st floor Club InterContinental Lounge available to guests on premium floors with an additional cost. I particularly enjoyed the Mint Restaurant. Jeff Campbell appears to be Sydney's celebrated chef of the moment. Following a jet-set career that has taken him to Japan, London and France he has spent three years in the company of celebrity chef Jamie Oliver where he collaborated on many of the well known Naked Chef television programs and Naked Chef books. His creations are divine.

Australia, the world’s largest island, has some of the best surfing beaches to be found anywhere. Here, visiting the beach is as much a social experience as an opportunity for relaxation and water sports, since the beach is integral to Australian culture. While there will always be disagreement over which of the thousands of beaches are the best, the following selection represents a variety of urban and regional surf beaches that are popular with both surfers and those looking for a fun day on the beach.

Noosa Heads, in Queensland, is one of Australia’s best family beaches. Facing north, it is more like an ocean cul-de-sac, with generally gentler surf conditions than might be found on the more open beaches. Just behind the beach is the famous Hastings Street shopping strip. High fashion boutiques, art galleries, and trendy restaurants run along its shopper-friendly pavements, shaded by lush, leafy trees.

The Gold Coast’s Burleigh Heads is famous for its pine tree backdrop and great point break surf. The famous Burleigh Barrel, a power-packed tube loved by all surfers is driven by solid swells and prevailing SE winds. Burleigh’s shopping precinct just off the beach is a quiet and eclectic collection of shops and cafes.

Byron Bay, in northern New South Wales, is considered Australia’s alternative lifestyle capital. The trendy town centre, boasting top-quality eateries and pubs, is fronted by a superb beach. The lack of high-rise development adds to the clean, laid-back appeal of this pristine location. Close to the beach strip are subtropical rainforests and national parks that you can easily visit.

On Sydney’s northern coastline, Palm Beach is noted as a residential suburb for the wealthy as much as for its surf beach. Situated on a peninsula, the beach has stunning Pacific Ocean front expanses with a variety of swells, and there are gentler waters on the west of the peninsular at Pittwater. Surrounding bushland adds to the feeling of genteel serenity.

Australia’s most famous beach, Sydney’s Bondi Beach, is where Australian beach culture originated. This stunning beach, bounded by rocky points at either end, abuts a vast promenade with a distinctively old world charm. Its wide stretch of sand is dominated by the grand old Bondi Pavilion, built in 1928. Campbell Parade, running parallel to the beach, is a people watcher’s delight.

Two hours’ drive south of Sydney is Kiama, where the beautiful Surf Beach offers a deep beachfront of pure white sand, gentle incoming waves, and an open park with cooking facilities and picnic areas. The beach is popular with families, and many visitors come to view the breath-taking Kiama Blowhole nearby.

At Portsea, in Victoria, Melbourne’s wealthy come to retire for a summer respite. Set on the western-most point of the sweeping Mornington Peninsula, Portsea boasts a fascinating, rugged ocean front beach as well as a quieter bay beach nearby. Stark rock formations, shaped by the area’s often savage winds, feature prominently around the beach landscapes. The tiny village has a feel of understated exclusivity.

Many would claim Bells Beach as Australia’s best board surfing beach. Located 100 km south west of Melbourne along the majestic Great Ocean Road, Bells is a largely untouched ocean beach with almost never-ending swells undulating across deep blue water. The beach ends abruptly with soaring cliffs of yellow and orange clay. Designated a state reserve, its unspoiled status is assured.

Margaret River, in Australia’s south west, is virtually unrivalled for the quality of its waves. The clear, open water swells and forms some of the world’s best and most consistent board and body catches. Dazzling views across the mighty river and its mouth as it spills into the Indian Ocean are plentiful. Margaret River township is a mellow precinct dotted with great cafes and art galleries.

Perth’s Cottesloe Beach is understandably that city’s pride and joy. The now ritzy suburb, just outside Perth CBD, affords unbeatable views across the ocean to gorgeous Rottnest Island. The westerly-facing beach, part of a long strip, is a fantastic place to watch the sun set on another day. The stately old surf club and restaurant provides a regal focal point.

Bondi Beach is one of those postcard, picture-perfect kind of places that if you go to Sydney, obviously you are going to want to go there. So you want to get down there, take your photos, take in the sights and sounds of Bondi Beach.

Bondi and Bondi Beach in particular is originally named from an aboriginal name, which was Bondi or Boondi, which meant to the aboriginals, who were the original people prior to the British settlement; that meant water breaking out of the rocks or the sound of water breaking over rocks. And when you go down to Bondi Beach you will understand why it was called that; because the surf crashing on the beach and on the rocks is really something quite spectacular.

Bondi Beach today is a pretty interesting place. Campbell Parade is the main commercial area and that runs along going to the beach. The beach itself is around 1-kilometer long, it runs roughly north-south and it is divided for surf club purposes. Divided into 2 halves, North Bondi and South Bondi; two separate patrolled beaches. But it is one continuous beach.

If you decide you are going to swim, please swim between the red flags. The red flags, like most beaches in Australia are patrolled by lifesavers, who are there to get you out of trouble. If you swim between the red flags that is both the safest area in the beach, and that is the area that the lifesavers are guarding and monitoring to help you if you get into any sort of trouble.

Historically Bondi was a working class suburb or a working class area; now it is a very eclectic mix. There is still a degree of the original working class inhabitants, but it is very much a place for the rich and famous to hang out, to live, to be seen and to see. There is a very strong cafe and restaurants scene, there is also some great bars there; both by the day and by the night as well.

If you are going to Bondi Beach, you will probably want to leave your car at home and get public transport. There is parking there, but it is all metered parking-relatively expensive, and the council parking inspectors are pretty common around there. If you are going there by public transport, the nearest hub for trains is Bondi Junction. Bondi Junction is around 2-kilometers up the hill from Bondi Beach. There is a major train station there at Bondi Junction and you can get a train just about anywhere in the city. From Bondi Junction you will want to jump on a bus that runs down to the beach.

During the days, those buses are very frequent; they run roughly every 10 minutes. After 7:30pm you will probably wait 15 up to 30 minutes for a bus to get down to Bondi Beach. Every bus that you get from Bondi Beach will run up to Bondi Junction. So you cannot really go wrong there.

One of the biggest attractions that people find at Bondi Beach is the People Watching. It is very much a hangout for the rich and famous, and you will see all sorts of movie stars and celebrities, Australian and otherwise. In and around Bondi Beach, people enjoy the night life scene and being seen. But you will also see some very interesting people and a good mix of the population. So People Watching can be an attraction.

Bondi Pavilion is the big cream-colored wedding cake kind of building, right there on Bondi Beach. It was built in the late 20s, early 30s, when swimming at Bondi Beach or surf bathing as it was known then became really popular. And the local council recognized that there was a need for some sort of building a formal establishment where people could bathe, could change, go to restaurants and take care of all those kinds of things. That is why Bondi Pavilion was formed.

Today Bondi Pavillion is a cultural center for Bondi and the eastern beaches. There are restaurants, cafes, art galleries, and many cultural events, short film festivals are held at Bondi Pavilion. So if you happen to be in Sydney at the right time, you get down to Bondi Pavilion and you really do not know what you could come across. It is well worth a look.

The Bondi Icebergs was originally, and still is a swimming and social club; was started off in the 30s by a group of 8 or 9 dedicated locals. They took very seriously the idea of swimming all year round, especially through the winter months, when obviously swimming is not all that popular.

Everyday of the year, the Bondi Icebergs are out swimming on Bondi Beach. And gradually from those very humble beginnings, that has morphed into what now the largest swimming club and social club in the world, and probably amongst the most impressive businesses, bars and restaurants in the Bondi area.

Bondi Icebergs is now a large licensed club perched right on the southern end of Bondi Beach, with enormous roof-to-floor glass windows that allow you to look out and enjoy Bondi Beach. You can look straight over the beach at the waves crashing in, the surfers and the sea pool that is down there as well. You can take all that in, while enjoying a nice cold drink, or dining in one of the restaurants. Well worth getting into the Bondi Icebergs for a little bit of history, and a meal or something to drink as well.

You can actually get full membership there, but the problem is that to earn full membership in the Bondi Icebergs Club, you've got to swim three Sundays out of four, all through the winter season. So 3 out of 4 Sundays, you've got to swim at Bondi Beach and you've got to do that for 5 consecutive years in order to become a full club member

The Bondi to Coogee Walk extends for about 6-kilometers from Bondi South to Coogee in Sydneys eastern suburbs. It takes about 2-hours from Bondi to Coogee, that is just a steady pace walking, at a reasonable pace without too many stops. Most people, like to just draw that out a little bit. There are a stack of places that you can stop, places for a swim, for a coffee, for drinks, something to eat along the way, so if you prefer you can draw it out and take up to half a day or longer if you like.

I prefer to make the walk twice, say if you started at Bondi, walk all the way to Coogee, stop there for lunch or a quiet drink in one of the restaurants or cafes there, then turn around and walk back in the afternoon. This can make a very pleasant habit. The Bondi to Coogee Walk is very easygoing, and, you don not need too many intensive preparations. The walk is well sign posted, its pathways all the way, so you can not really get lost. There are plenty of places to stop for food and drink along the way. The going is pretty straightforward, there is some uphill and there is some downhill, but nothing too strenuous for your average person of reasonable fitness.

What are you likely to see if you travel the Bondi to Coogee Walk? Well, if you start at Bondi, you will walk past the Bondi Icebergs, and pass to the south up onto Mackenzies Point. This is a point that looks over to the North, so you can see North and South Bondi, to the south you can look all the way down to Maroubra Beach in the distance. There are some pretty spectacular views, and if you have a look around up there at Mackenzies Point, there are actually some old aboriginal carvings of a whale. It takes some looking around or asking around, but these are amongst the first Aboriginal carvings that were reported in Australia.

If you keep walking south and you enter a gradual downhill, and the very beach first that you will come down to is called Tamarama. This beach is also known as Glamarama because of the large abundance of movie stars and the rich and famous that like to hang around there. This is a very small beach, used mostly by locals, and the well to do. Tamarama has a little bit of surf there and at times it can be a little bit rough and dangerous. Tamarama is a patrolled beach in a nice spot.

If you keep walking south past Tamarama, you are up a gentle rise, over the crest and down into a beautiful beach called Bronte Beach. This is my favorite of the beaches that you will likely encounter on the Bondi to Coogee Walk. Bronte is a very picturesque beach. It is nowhere near as big as Bondi, but its got a very large grassed area immediately behind it on the promenade. It has a particularly large surf, but again, it is well patrolled and if you swim between the flags, you should not have too many problems. Bronte Beach has a large cafe strip as well, there are some great cafes up there along the southern side. It is a great spot to stop for breakfast or coffee, if you are that way inclined.

Once you finish through Bronte, you will keep walking south and you will notice only the side that the rock has been carved away to make way for the road. The walls are 15 to 20 feet high on either side. That is where the trams used to be back at the turn of the century. That rock was moved away so the tram line could run to Bronte Beach. Waverley Cemetery has got to be the cemetery on the most expensive real estate in Sydney. It is a really dramatic coastline, and the views are amazing, so just looking along the ocean you will see this very large cemetery over quite a few acres, on your right hand side. Waverley cemetery is home to a lot very famous Australian People like Henry Lawson, a famous Australian Poet, Victor Trumper, who played a fair bit of Cricket and was batsman of some renown, Lawrence Hargrave, Henry Kendall, and many others have found their final resting places at Waverley Cemetery.

Past Waverley Cemetery is Clovelly, which is a small but very sheltered beach. There is not much to surf there at all, so if you are into much more of a calm paddle then Clovelly is the spot to stop for you. Stop for a bit of swim there, there is also an ocean pool as well, where you can get in and have a look. After you cross the car park at Clovelly, you will walk up some reasonably steep stairs and from the top of the stairs, you walk down and into Gordons Bay. Gordons Bay is an interesting place. There is not really a spot for swimming, there is no beach, but it is a very popular snorkeling and scuba diving area.

There is an underwater nature trail, so if you like Scuba diving, Gordons Bay is actually a really good, convenient local spot in Sydney. You follow a chain around there, and it is a very good dive. The dive is fairly shallow and divers probably would not get much more than 12-meters in depth. This means from your average tank you will get around an hour on the bottom. Finally if you walk down to Gordons Bay and crest you will come down into Coogee and Coogee Beach. This is a great spot, which you will approach from the north, down into Coogee Beach. There are lots of cafes, lots of restaurants, lots of hotels, good places to stop for a beer, something to eat and everything else you could desire. From Coogee you can turn around and walk back if you like, or you can get a Bus 353 back to Bondi Beach. If you really want to do what the locals do, then get amongst the Coogee to Bondi Walk because it is a great walk and a great way to showcase some of the eastern beaches of Sydney.